Tips on Buying Jewelry at a Live Auction

Recently, I purchased jewelry and semi-precious stones at a live theater style auction. I frequently attend auctions at Sotheby's and Christie's. But never before did I participate in an auction as a serious contender. This time was different. I was a serious bidder and wanted to buy a few jewelry pieces that I liked. Below are the tips that I followed to bid for jewelry and stones.

1. Attend the Jewelry Auction Preview

You have to inspect jewelry pieces or stones that you are going to bid for. Without knowing the quality of the jewelry piece or stone, you will not be in a position to bid accurately and may eventually end up loosing.

2. Know the Auctioneer

It is very important to know who the auctioneer is and what is his style. Except high end auctions, most liquidating or auctioning companies are owned by auctioneers. It is very likely that an auctioneer will be present at the time of preview. You have to strike a conversation with the auctioneer and get to know him. This is where small talk will come in very handy. Auctioneer holds all the decision making power including the right to eject bidders from an auction theater.

3. Understand the Rules of Auction

It goes without saying that you will not play a game without knowing its rules. Auction is a game and you have to know the rules. It will help tremendously if you go above and beyond in understanding the auction. For example, if the auction is a chapter 7 liquidation then the auction takes place in the presence of a trustee. It would be a good idea to explore the situation of what happens if something does not get auctioned. There can be many examples like this. You have to understand that auction is a competition and there are professionals who attend these auctions and make financial decisions not jewelry business decisions.

4. Make a List of Items You Want to Bid on

The purpose of the preview for you is to generate that list. You will not be able to bid successfully in that auction if you do not have that list prepared.

5. Set a Maximum Bidding Price on Each Jewelry Item or Stone

Discipline is very important when it comes to bidding. You have to set a maximum bidding price and not bid in excess of that price at any cost. Too often, people get swept in the swelling emotions and competition of the auction. In business schools they teach the outcome of this behavior as "Winner's Curse". When you win a jewelry auction, you most likely have paid more than the jewelry item deserved. However, if you are disciplined then you can stand a chance of avoiding this "Winner's Curse"

6. Take Advantage of Mistakes During Auction

In a big auction where there are hundreds or thousands of lots, the auctioneer and the bidders are going to make mistakes. It is not a question of if but when. The amount of mental concentration required to conduct a flawless auction or bid flawlessly is too great. This is where information and smarts will set you apart. If you can take advantage of these mistakes by either auctioneer or bidders then you will certainly come out as a winner. For example, in the most recent auction that I attended, the auction went on for 15 hours as they were auctioning about 2000 lots. I pounced on mistakes of auctioneer and bidders several times and captured valuable items for much less.

7. Prepare a Bidding Strategy if Multiple Lots In One Bid are Involved

If the auction is of the type where multiple lots are being auction in a single bid, then typically the winner of the bid gets to choose the number of lots he/she wants. You have to prepare a smart strategy where you should NOT choose more than 1 lot of the winning bid since there is a possibility that the other lots which go for a lower bid.

8. Verify Your Winnings

In order to close the loop on your winning bid, collection of items is the single most important thing that you should do after successful bidding. You have to verify if the jewelry items or pieces that you are getting are the same as the ones that you bid on.

Is Jewelry Disposable?

Jewelry is the best accessory. Out of all the types of accessories such as glasses, handbags, perfumes, watches etc., jewelry is one that is class apart. I am not saying this because I love jewelry but I am saying this as an accessory designer.

Jewelry is the only accessory which is neither disposable nor dispensable. Jewelry does not get consumed or gets worn out (unless of poor quality or artificial) neither does it get old. Any fine jewelry piece above $500 is certainly a financial investment and any piece below $500 is your staple. Further, it is hard to match accentuating power of jewelry to any dress on any body type. Jewelry is truly a unique accessory of them all.


Call to arms for managing your jewelry collection efficiently...

I would like present a viewpoint which modifies the conclusion drawn from the above argument. I believe that any jewelry below $500 should be treated as disposable. This does not mean that we should dump or trash our jewelry to get rid of them. What it really means is that you should manage your collection in a smart way. For all fine jewelry below $500, you should segregate your collection into three parts. First part consists of your perennial favorites that cannot be replaced. Second part of your collection consists of jewelry pieces that exist to provide a wider variety to your first collection. Third part of your collection are the pieces which were bought because they were fashionable or part of a fad at that time. Those pieces may still look good but they represent the transient part of your collection. I believe that it is the second and the third parts of your collection that are prime candidates for replacement because of the loss of "freshness factor".

How to Dispose Jewelery

Disposable nature of an accessory is truly revealed when it looses its "Freshness Factor". The same is the case with any fine jewelry below $500. Any jewelry that has lost its "Freshness Factor" is certainly not in the first part of your collection. There is a certain amount of emotional inertia in keeping that jewelry piece in your collection. I would argue that you should actively look to replace those pieces. There are many ways jewelry can be disposed without loosing out on value. Gifting or exchanging is an easy way to dispose jewelry without disposing its value. Selling it the most difficult option because your will either end up putting it on ebay or selling it to your local jeweler. You can also try to get your jewelry altered into something that you always liked or something you wanted to try. The bottom line is that there are multiple options when it comes to disposing jewelry without parting with its value.

So like clothes or handbags, why keep jewelry that is no longer serving your purpose? I don't..

Will Silver Jewelry Look Good on Me?

I do not know of any woman who has not asked that question. Silver jewelry is very enticing and affordable. Yet, you always wonder if it looks good on you!!. Not everyone can carry some of the staple silver styles, yet you can always find a design that suits you perfectly. I am presenting a few thoughts on how to think about silver jewelry and how can you maximize the quality of your experience and satisfaction with silver jewelry.

Search for good designs in Silver Jewelry

Silver jewelry is cheaper to manufacture as compared to Gold jewelry. This allows jewelers to design, make and stock a much wider variety of designs. This wider variety of design availability has its advantages and disadvantages. The primary advantage is that there is always a design available which will perfectly suit you and your aspirations. The disadvantage is that now you have to search for those perfect designs amid a plethora of mediocre and mass produced designs.

What does this mean for you? Should you now waste a great deal of time and effort in looking for perfect designs in silver? Well, the answer is maybe. If you are looking for that greatest satisfaction and a perfection in design then you are sure to find that in silver jewelry. You can be rest assured that somewhere out there is lurking a design waiting for you. However, not every one can spend so much time and effort looking for perfect designs. Hence, you should invoke trust in companies that sell designs you like.

Silver Jewelry, after all, is an acquired taste.

Silver jewelry is, to draw an analogy, like a beer. You may not like it the first time but you will acquire the taste and eventually start liking it. It may even become your staple jewelry for all occasions like beer is to all social gatherings. However, Silver like everything else, needs to be elevated to a higher level. You have to look for designs that you like and you think will suit you better. You have to differentiate quality from quantity. Ultimately, you have to try it and bear the audacity to carry it. Without a trial, you may never know that you carry a liking for silver jewelry.

Know your Silver Jewelry

Unlike Gold Jewelry, Silver jewelry is a different products doing the same function. You should definitely know and learn what owning silver jewelry entails. Silver jewelry is not maintenance free. Getting comfortable with silver is important. There are various aspects about silver that you should know such as whether you want to buy Sterling Silver or not? How to maintain silver jewelry? What does oxidation mean? How to clean silver jewelry? Knowing answers to these questions will allow you to enjoy your silver jewelry and be satisfied with it.

Silver Jewelry Bottom line

You have to find our own comfort zone with silver jewelry. You should at least try out add a few pieces to your collection so that you can figure out your own silver comfort zone.

5 Must- Knows about Gold Plated Silver Jewelry

1. It is plating not just polishing

Gold plating on silver jewelry is not the same as gold polish on silver. Plating is a chemical reaction which allows gold to adhere to silver. Gold polish is like a paint on your silver jewelry which will wear off much faster. FDA requires a layer of at least 3 microns thickness on a metal surface to be called plated while polishing can be as negligible as 0.01 microns of gold.

Gold polish has a much shorter life and can wear off more easily than gold plating can. Technically, gold plating can survive a very very long time if the jewelry is worn with basic caution. Before buying any silver jewelry with gold plating, you need to be certain that it is gold plated and not gold polished because you will be paying for your jewelry accordingly and you should be prepared for the maintenance that may be required from the same.

Gold Plated Sterling Silver Jewelry

2. What is the thickness of Gold Plating?

Thickness of gold plating directly impacts the quality, look and longevity of any gold plated silver jewelry piece. The greater the thickness of gold plating, the better the gold plated silver jewelry will look.
Not only will the propensity of plating to wear off become lower, but also the plating is more likely to survive any impacts or unfortunate mishandling of the jewelry piece. One of the disadvantages of greater thickness is that it increases the cost of the gold plated silver jewelry piece because gold is much more expensive than silver. Also if the bonding of the two metal surfaces is not very fast, then in some events, the plating may chip off from delicate positions of the jewel.

Plating will last longer on a rough surface rather than on a smooth polished surface

The gold plating on this hand beaten sterling silver bangle should last much longer than that on high polish bangles

3. Watch out for chips, cuts and rough spots

When buying gold plated silver jewelry, you should immediately check for chips, cut or any rough spots on the piece. This is normally an indicator of either low quality of plating or possibility of gold plating done on a incompatible design. Next section talks about this.
The one other reason for chipping off of gold from plated jewelry is when the chemical bond between the two surfaces is not complete. In the best cases, the gold should bond molecule to molecule with the silver alloy which is possible by using fluoride based chemical reactors as the bonding adhesive.
The few places that you should look out for chips in the plating in jewelry are:

• Around sharp edges and corners
  
• Hinges and joints
• Areas where the stones dangle if required
• Crevices of highly textured surfaces
• Wires and other really narrow surfaces
• Parts of jewelry where the product will be frequently bent such as edges of bracelets etc

4. Is Gold plating compatible with the design that you are choosing?

Not all silver jewelry is a good candidate for gold plating. The design of the jewelry directly affects whether gold plating will look good on that silver piece and sometimes even whether it will last long enough. There is no straightforward method to evaluate whether a design is compatible with gold plating but it comes with experience. You should ask opinion of your friends and jewelers to understand more about design compatibility of gold plating on silver jewelry.

Example of a good design for Gold Plated Silver Jewelry

5. How and when will the Gold plating wear off silver jewelry

There are many circumstances in which Gold plating will wear off from over silver. Gold adheres very well to silver but it will eventually wear off. The composition of gold and other alloys used in plating have a direct impact on the quality and longevity of plating. The chemicals used for bonding the gold with Silver also affects its longevity.
How you wear jewelry and care for it is one of the most important factors that determine the longevity of gold plating on silver jewelry.

• Extreme temperature change can in some circumstances affect plating.
• High impact such as dropping your jewel on a hard surface
• Exposure to ultrasonic cleaners
• Leaving jewelry carelessly with each other or letting it rub against other hard surfaces can create scratches
• Acidic baths, even in mild forms which is possible during jewelry cleaning or repair can definitely affect the plating on your jewelry. Always inform your jewelry repair person of plating when required.

You should take good care while wearing and maintaining gold plated jewelry. This doesn't mean that you cannot wear gold plated silver jewelry in your normal course of the day (otherwise what would be the point of owning such a piece), but a little care and caution goes a long way.

Jewelry with Surbhi

EBC Radio 1170 Diwali party 2009 October

Collection launch on 4th Dec and 6th Dec

Jewel Sutra heartily invites you to join us for the launch of our Jewelry and Garments collection

JEWEL SUTRA December 2009 events

The Rani Haar

"Rani Haar" as the name suggests is a style of necklace especially made for the Queens of yester- years.

This is a style of necklace in which the neck piece sits very close to the neck. It is sometimes combined with a choker. It has a repetitive pattern with a constant width of at least an inch or so, which will follow throughout the length of the necklace up till the back or the lock of the necklace.

Aishwarya Rai adorned with the true look of Rani Haar in the movie Jodha Akbar. Jewelry originally created by Tanishq

The pattern can be inspired by floral motives or just random setting of kundan or meenakari. The craftsman usually made individual pieces of the repetitive motive and then strung them on a gold chain or raw silk cord. The other option was to connect them via horizontal links.

Another gorgeous Kundan rani haar designed by Tanishq for Aishwarya Rai in the movie Jodha Akbar

Originally the Rani Haar was made in Gold and precious stones with very fine finishing of meenakari work on the back but nowadays, you can find imitations in non-precious materials as well.

Madhuri Dixit in the movie Devdas wearing a typical set of earrings to match the Rani Haar

The Rani Haar spreads beautifully around the neck and shoulders and looks extremly graceful and rich when worn with the Indian saree. The beautiful necklace when worn with a gown for an evening gathering could also look enchanting.

Aishwarya Rai in the movie Devdas wearing Rani Haar with matching Earrings and Maangtikka

The earrings that you would combine traditionally with the Rani haar are usually very long and heavy with a kanauti or decorative supportive chain that leads up and pins up in the hair. But following the current trends and practicality, a Rani Haar would look best when worn with medium weight earrings with the length reaching no more than the chin at max.

Almost Rani haar made in silver using Semi-precious stones and uncut diamonds (polki)

Do you wear a mangalsutra daily?

Mangalsutra is a string of beads worn in the neck as a necklace by married women in the Hindu religion as a symbol of marriage. Various parts of India have varying protocols for the structure of a Mangalsutra.

The common thing between all Mangalsutra is the fact that it has black beads or enamel and gold. The black color is to help ward off the evil eye and the gold is to symbolize the power of the woman as Laxmi, the Goddess of wealth.

In North India, the black beads originally black onyx are strung together with a special joint known as the Mangalsutra joint, especially by the Brahmin craftsmen and is believed to be blessed by the Gods. The Mangalsutra joint is actually a handcrafted loop and ball joint which is made very carefully stringing each individual bead on an individual loop of gold and woven into the next loop. This ensures that even if the Mangalsutra happens to break, it will not let the beads fall apart and hence suggests the way a marriage will last through all tough times.

In Eastern parts of India, a Mangalsutra is worn in form of a bangle made out of an alloy of metals which gives it a rich black color. It has a gold casing around parts of it.

In Southern parts of India, the Mangalsutra is called the Thali and can be of various patterns. The most common one is representing Balaji. Some Mangalsutras have 2 discs and a symbol in the middle representing the male to whom the woman is wed. In olden days, even children wore thaalis made out of tiger teeth, tiger nails and covered with gold. The concept was similar, to defend the wearer from the evil eye. It

As a general rule, in India, a Mangalsutra is worn with the same emotion as the engagement ring is in the Western countries.

However, with the changing times, and hence dressing sense and social protocols, most women have accepted an engagement ring as the symbol of matrimony over a Mangalsutra. The Mangalsutra still holds its sanctity as the most important exchange of jewel DURING the wedding ceremonies. The woman still wears this auspicious jewel on major religious festivals such as Karwachauth, Diwali, Holi etc.

But when the Indian woman accepted the Western dress code and gave up wearing sarees to work, she had no option but to give up on wearing Mangalsutras in her daily routine as well. The reason was simple, gold and black beads especially when on a heavy neckpiece, will not go well with a pant suit or a dress suit which calls for more subtle accessories.

Even though I am no judge or advocate in favor of or against the wearing of Mangalsutra is daily wear, I believe that the marriage of two beings happens within the souls of those individuals and the wearing or not wearing of any jewel including engagement rings, wedding rings or Mangalsutras can shake it.

Jewelry should be as comfortable as you would like to be through the day and it is a must that you feel comfortable in all accessories you wear every day. May it be for the look or for the feel, go with the flow and enjoy your Mangalsutra when you decide it is time to wear it.

Nonetheless, for those of you who would anyways want to wear a mangalsutra in everyday without having to live with the 'bold gold' look, you can try some of the following tips;

1. Try wearing a very short necklace made of very tiny beads of Mangalsutra which sits really close to the neck and hence looks trendy.
2. You could opt for the diamond pendant Mangalsutras which is the latest craze and looks fancy and yet wearable with Western outfits
3. Try rhodium polish on the gold part of the Mangalsutra which could be an interesting combination
4. Detachable pendants give very good options for versatility of the Mangalsutra
5. Try a really long Mangalsutra which will get covered under your shirt and stand out boldly with a saree
6. Try the Bangle Mangalsutra which looks chic at the same time as serving its purpose

Sex and the City - 2

Solange Azagury Patridge in Sex and the City - II

We loved the way she wrote, we loved the way she dressed and definitely loved the way she lived it... Carry Bradshaw is coming back in our lives with more sex and a lot more city.

And guess what? She has more bling and a lot more flare with her frocks, fancies and the rest. The funk is on with the colors and bizarre styles. The feature neckpiece this season is designed Solange Azagury Partridge.

http://jewelry01.blogspot.com/2009/09/sarah-jessicas-statement-necklace.html

The description for this unconventional neckpiciece as on the website is 18Ct Blackened white gold, Diamond, Emerald Sapphire Ruby and Fire Opal necklace. My interpretation is that it is created in 18K white gold with some kind of oxidation or surface treatment to blacken the metal. The stones are in several colors so it has to be colors of sapphire... enjoy the dressy look and the flambouyance of colored stones to the fullest in this new version of the tutti frutti.


It is colorful and yes I agree it is ridiculous. But it has done its job... you stopped in your tracks and now you wonder why a mosiac window work would go with a white dress on a neck that is far from young... but then you have your answer... it is the show stopper and it did stop you.

The it girl of Jewelry Design

Solange Azagury Patridge
www.solangeazagurypartridge.com

With no formal training and an obsession for creating quirky yet luxurious jewelry, Solange Azagury-Partridge, a self taught jewelry designer from London, has been touted as, “Probably the best jewelry designer of this generation” (Kate Reardon, The Sunday Times). She has revolutionized the industry with her innate ability to create stunning, seductive and sexy pieces, taking inspiration from everything from kinetics to candy. She is a maverick designer, creating history through her brilliant ideas and use of opulent materials.

Since opening shop in 1995 in the exclusive Notting Hill area of London, Solange Azagury-Partridge has gone from being a small trendy boutique designer to one of the world’s most coveted jewelers. Her pieces have been praised in numerous prominent fashion magazines such as Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, solidifying her place as one of the most fashion forward and original designers of our time.

Solange’s first experience working with jewelry was as an assistant designer at Butler & Wilson, a costume jewelry shop in London. What was first a way to earn extra money after leaving university became the beginning of Solange’s lifelong obsession with jewelry. She famously created her first piece (her own engagement ring) from an uncut diamond and plain gold band, and after being inundated with compliments from everyone who saw it, she decided to take her talent to the next level. Her namesake boutique (which resembles a huge walk-in jewelry box) opened in 1995 and thus began her remarkable career in design.

When her stunning debut collections created a frenzy, her reputation as the new “It” designer was born and attracted the attention of top names in the industry. It wasn’t long before Solange was hired as Creative Director of Boucheron, the venerable French jewelry designer with over 150 years experience behind the brand. She has been credited with bringing Boucheron back into the style stakes and reinventing the brand by modernizing their image and appealing to a younger, more fashion forward market. Azagury-Partridge used the themes of snakes and bondage to create stunning pieces filled with desire and temptation- seductive emerald and sapphire snake rings set in black gold, delicately flowing chain rings and antique inspired chunky diamond rings. Using monochromatic color ways set in black gold, Solange revived a traditional brand by referencing an antique look, but through brilliant design opened up the brand to untapped markets. These collections were so revered that some pieces now appear on display in the Musee Des Arts Decoratifs Du Louvre in Paris.

After three years working with Boucheron and now focusing on her own line, Solange has continually impressed the fashion world with her innate ability to create luxurious high end jewelry that also channels the coyness of costume pieces. Her ability to use unpredictable combinations of stones and metals translate well for her fashion conscious market and her client base boasts an impressive list of celebrities, musicians, artists and rock stars. Madonna, Marc Jacobs, Kirsten Dunst, Nicole Kidman and Julianne Moore are a few of the many celebrities who flaunt her creations. It is her openness to inspiration that results in her quirky pieces- crop circle diamond earrings, crocodile skull jeweled rings, an anatomically correct heart of gold pendant and a pair of gold chain earrings fashioned to look like crinolines. It is easy to see why her funky ideas paired with luxurious metals and gems are irresistible to the traditional and daring alike.

Solange has continued to enjoy phenomenal success and has expanded her business into furniture and perfume design, never losing touch with her roots as a jewelry designer. Debuting in the US market for the first time, “Unwearable Jewels”, (featured at Sebastian + Barquet) revealed a gemstone inlaid coffee table, diamond encrusted chandelier and jeweled wall plaques. Fetching up to $80 000 USD a piece, these are exclusive fantasy inspired items that are for serious Solange aficionados. She has also enjoyed uncharted success with her two perfumes. The premier scent Stoned was a sweet candy scented fragrance that included diamond dust as an ingredient, and her latest, Cosmic, plays homage to her love of gemstones by containing real stardust (finely ground meteorites).

Catering to her huge fan base, she is currently working on her line to include more accessible and affordable pieces so everyone can own a piece of Solange Azagury-Partridge jewelry. Whether her brand can ever be considered mass market is questionable, but there is no doubt that she is one of the most inspiring jewelry designers of this generation, and her work will continue to be revered for generations to come.

- by Stacey Richardson for www.jewelsutra.com

The Jewelry Exchange of New Jersey

The experience of visiting the Jewelry Exchange is always the same... educational.

Pros

1. Great Sales people: Every visit to the Jewelry exchange is an educational tour. You would learn about stones, gold, prices, value, design and other similar things about jewelry.
2. Amazing variety of designs and product options: After the internet, this is the best place to hunt for a variety of classic designs. Most designs are variations of the basic pieces such as the Tiffany set diamond ring, or the tennis bracelet or solitaire rings etc. You can get exactly what you want in the exact shade of diamond that you desire.
   
3. Easy to compare prices right away: Since the jewelry exchange is a cometitive market place, you can compare prices for similar goods right away. You have a wide selection of diamonds and colored stones so you can choose exactly what you want in the budget that you have decided.
4. Place for all budgets: Lest assured you would find jewelry in all budget ranges at the jewelry exchange. Starting from baby jewelry or gift items for under 50 $ you can go up to an ambitious range of very highly priced collector's items.
5. Upper hand on bargaining: The pressure of making a sale is way more intense in the jewelry exchange which obviously would give a tactful customer a very good upper hand in bargaining for the price of what they like.
6. Instant comparsion of prices and designs from the malls around: Since the Jewelry Exchange is centrally located in Edison, you have access to the mall jewelry stores at several locations within a half hour driving distance.
7. Repair and resizing options available within premises: This is one of the biggest advantages that the jewelry exchange has to offer to you. You can buy a diamond off the internet at Bluenile or Costco or some place else and simply buy a mount from the jewelry exchange and get it set or resized right in front of you.
8. Cleaning service available at many jewelers: Almost every jeweler will clean the jewelry you are wearing while you wait and browse through their collection
9. Walk away without making a purchase: You can walk away when you want even without making the purchase and you will still be welcome the next day and the day after that and the day after. This is the Jewelry Exchange for you.
   
10. You can sell your jewelry: Several jewelers at the Jewelry Exchange will buy or exchange your old jewelry or gold for money or new jewelry.
    

CONS:

1. Great Expectations: Every time you go to the jewelry exchange you walk in with great expectations and rarely walk out with any gratification. It may be the design, prices, the quality or maybe just a late realization of this blog post, but in any case, I have rarely come across a customer of the jewelry exchange leave alone a happy one.
2. Great salespeople: Once you get sucked into the web, it is very difficult to get out of the hypnotic dose of information and passion from any one jeweler. The magnetism of the sales people is so strong that it is very difficult to walk away without making the purchase
3. Well experienced people: In the exchange, where jewelry is passes all the time all around, everyone learns the cunning traits of the trade, that is everyone but the fresh client so you have to be very wary of what you hear and buy once you are in
4. Too many designs and options: This is a very common dilemma that several people face. There is simply too much information and too much visual material to process to make the decision that could have been simpler at another store
5. Return, exchange or upgrade policy: You buy and you realize you are not too happy about the purchase. You go back to the Jewelry Exchange to return what you bought but you are shown the ... fine print... on the bottom of the receipt which nullifies all exchanges, returns and upgrades. In short there is no policing of the policies of the individual store owners so you are really on your own when it comes to risking your money at the jewelry exchange.
6. No guarantee is good enough: At the jewelry exchange you go out to buy a diamond with for lower prices. You will find plenty but those will be lower in quality as well. You get to see a "certified" diamond, but stop and think twice as to who is really certifying and what is the authenticity or the value of the certificate. Unless it is a GIA certified diamond and NONE other, you may land up paying an expensive penalty for that "great" deal that you are getting at the Jewelry Exchange. I have actually come across diamonds certified by non-GIA bodies which are definitely over ranked in their basic 4 Cs.
7. Not the most expensive collection of jewels nor the most exclusive one: People go to the Jewelry Exchange for good deals and for great bargains. You would rarely find exclusive designs at the jewelry exchange. You can order for something that you have liked or seen at another jeweler or a jewelry book, but I doubt that you will find any design award winners here.
8. Most of the self-certified products carry a little certificate which carries a little fine print line which nullifies the guaranty for every other reason: This is just an extension and reinforcement to what I have already stated above
9. Chances of switching the stones in case of repair etc: Basically you are the only one liable for your product at the Jewelry Exchange. This point me of the time my mother, also a Graduate Gemologist went to a small time diamond dealer in New Delhi, India. She chose a gorgeous rock (diamond: 2.25 ct, VS1, F-color, Very good cut, no Florescence, round brilliant cut) for an UNBELIEVABLE price. She started to write out the check while the diamond dealer cleant the diamond in the ultra sonic cleanser right in front of her. Just before handing over the check, she happened to review her purchase and realized that he had switched the diamond with a similar sized, I3, poor color diamond. And yes she has been in the trade for a while.
10. High chance of coming across misnomers, synthetics, imitation and mis represented jewelry or stones: This i snot an uncommon practice at many jewelers. It is easy to call a colorless sapphire a white sapphire and a pink one a "pink ruby". But seriously, when you think of a misnomer such as a "golden" topaz then question the real value of that stone as a "yellow" topaz or a pink sapphire or a colorless sapphire etc. It is easy to get into the trap of the "Fool's gold". The story goes as this, Lapis Lazuli a truly gorgeous blue colored stone that carries golden specks of non-precious minerals was once sold in tonnes under the name of gold. This was later described as the fool's gold since it was only sold to those who were unaware of this misrepresentation of minerals.

Basically... you should buy from the jewelry exchange only if you know what you are up against or else you are accompanied by someone who really knows what the ins and outs of jewelry are and more importantly, someone who really has interest in your best interest. Like I already mentioned all the advantages of visiting the jewelry exchange, you can really get good for your buck if you are careful of what you buy or learn from the Exchange.

For any questions about a stone that you are considering or any design that you are looking at, you can share your anxiety, doubt or excitement with me at surbhi.s.gupta@gmail.com

One of the best designers of the jewelry industry

Todd Reed- Raw Elegance
WWW.TODDREED.COM

One of the most popular slogans of all time is the classic, “A diamond is forever”. And rightfully so, as it celebrates the perfection and timeless quality of precision cut diamond jewelry that we are so enamored with. However, there is a forgotten beauty; that of the diamond in its raw form. Todd Reed is a top Colorado based jewelry designer known for his passion to celebrate this forgotten beauty with the use of raw diamonds in his work. A self taught metalsmith, Todd is a true designer having created everything from furniture to clothing, as well as being a certified culinary chef. He takes his inspiration from beauty and love, and aims to challenge the perception of what is considered beautiful in jewelry, more specifically in diamonds. He designs with skill, technique and his conscience. His jewelry contains recycled gold and stones, and he only uses conflict-free diamonds. All of his pieces are hand crafted in his Colorado studio by him and his team. Ethical, environmentally friendly and beautiful, Todd Reed’s pieces usher in a new era of design.

Getting back to basics and using uncut diamonds has been a distinctive part of Todd’s brand image. He creates pieces that have an earthy, rugged and sensual feel to them, although he also manages to convey sophistication and class. His collections feature rings, pins, bracelets, necklaces and menswear that are unique, bold and distinctive in style. Using uncut diamonds set along with cut diamonds results in a fabulous juxtaposition that highlights the versatility of the gemstone. Raw vs. refined, subtle vs. brazen, Reed blends the opposites into one cohesive look.

An area where Reed is gaining much popularity is the wedding ring market. Popular bridal forums are filled with praise for Tom’s work, from brides-to-be that have purchased his stunning ring sets with the contentment that comes from buying an ethical product. In stark contrast to the highly polished, precision cut, multifaceted wedding rings made popular by Tiffany’s, Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels, Todd Reed’s pieces show a more rugged and organic beauty, the diamond in its natural state. Not only are his wedding ring designs subtly beautiful, but they also have a distinctive look which sets his customers apart from the crowd. His eternity bands feature exotic rose cut diamonds, octahedron diamonds and various colored diamond center stones. His menswear line also boasts the same unique combination of rugged and refined. Eternity bands of palladium and gold are adorned with cubical raw diamonds and princess cut diamonds that peek out where you least expect it. This element of surprise is one of the key features that make his work so alluring and desirable.

In addition to rings, Todd Reed’s line includes a myriad of choices that showcase his eclectic style. His brooches resemble miniature works of art that intrigue and inspire. He also designs gorgeous necklaces that while being made of the finest materials, also have an easy versatility about them that can reflect casual or formal moods. Cleaved diamonds, aquamarines, topaz beads and, of course, raw diamonds enhance his neckwear, which can easily be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.

Tantalizing earrings are another strong feature of this collection. Reed gives his earrings an earthy, almost ethnic flavor by using random bezel set stones and diamonds in an illuminating ensemble of gold. Rose cut diamonds dance next to raw diamonds on hoops, clusters and drop earrings. Throughout his work, Reed also uses a patina finish- a finish created on a metal surface by oxidation which darkens the metal color- to give an interesting contrast. Again, we see the element of surprise at work through his treatment of precious metals.

Currently, Todd Reed is working on developing his line while continuing to promote his work at various trade shows across the US. He is also devoted to training and education, and teaches many classes around the Colorado area. A self taught designer from the school of life, and a dedicated pioneer of the eco-friendly jewelry movement, Todd Reed is a perfect choice for those who want raw beauty and elegance with a conscience.

- by Stacey Richardson for www.jewelsutra.com

Why is gold so popular?

Gold... the name in itself is precious, and beautiful...

Gold in its pure form is yellow in color and is called PURE GOLD or FINE GOLD. Its purity represented in KARAT.

WHY IS GOLD ALLOYED: It is alloyed or mixed with other metals in a consistent blend for the following most important reasons:

To achieve the strength or stability in gold

• Pure gold is very soft and jewelry made in this kind can easily bend and get misshaped. Fine work such as filigree is usually not recommended in pure gold because it can bend out of shape to irreparable extents fairly easily


• Stones set in pure gold can easily fall out because of the softness of the metal holding them. Most commonly plain gold jewelry is made in 22 K in India and 14K or 18 K in the US.


• To make a product in higher karat gold, the thickness of the product has to be considerably increased to increase its stability. Thus you will land up paying more for the same design made in higher karat gold.

To achieve color in gold

Gold in its purest form is yellow. Gold is often alloyed with other metals such as silver, copper, zinc, palladium etc to achieve a whiter or paler look. “White” gold is an extremely pale color of gold which looks almost white. This is usually created in 18 K gold or lesser purity of gold.

• Normally the bright yellow of pure gold reflects off beautifully on darker skin tones. This makes 22 K yellow gold a popular choice in India as well as Africa. However, pale yellow colored jewelry looks beautiful on most paler or lighter colored skins and hence becomes a popular metal in the US, Italy and Australia. White gold is now a popular choice all over the world due to its publicity and resemblance to platinum.


• Other colors in gold are pink gold, purple, black, green and white. These colors depending on the properties of each are used to enhance design without compensating on the value of the product.

Workability increases when the gold is alloyed

• It is simpler to create solder (material used to join two pieces of gold) for a lower karat of gold rather than struggle with achieving the purity of 24 K gold.


• For a craftsman it is easier to work on lower Karat of gold most of the time if the product has to be hand crafted. He has to be much more attentive so as not to ruin his work when working with fine gold.


• For these above reasons, the making or labor charges may be lesser for a lower karat product in gold.

The cost of metal in a product is reduced considerably

• If in a 18K gold product, the value of metal used is $ 750, then the same design made in 24K gold will be $ 1000. The same design in 9K gold will be $ 375 only. Thus in a fixed budget one can get more if they are willing to compensate on the karat value of the metal.


• Since the weight of gold is more than that of silver or copper, (which is the most common alloying metal for making jewelry) hence the mass of 10gm pure gold will be lesser than that of 9 K gold.

• This means that a 10 gm gold bangle in 24 K is smaller to look at than the same design same weight in 9 K gold.

• Due to its softness, the higher the karat of gold, the faster it gets scratches thus requires more frequent polishing and hence the loss of precious material. This wear and tear makes the product look older sooner.

ABOUT THE ALLOYS

Pure or fine gold is 24 K and theoretically this means that the metal has 100% gold content in it.
But for making jewelry, an example of 18 K gold in terms of “fineness” is the gold content expressed in 750 parts per thousand (75.0% gold). The remaining 25% of the metals in this alloy can vary depending upon the property desired.

The percentage of gold in various alloys is given below (the commonly used Karat values are marked in bold).

1. 24 K = 24/24 * 100 = 100 % Gold; no other metal
2. 23 K = 23/24 * 100 = 95.83 % Gold; 4.17 % other metals
3. 22 K = 22/24 * 100 = 91.66 % Gold; 8.34 % other metals
4. 21 K = 21/24 * 100 = 87.5 % Gold; 12.5 % other metals
5. 20 K = 20/24 * 100 = 83.33 % Gold; 16.67 % other metals
6. 19 K = 19/24 * 100 = 79.16 % Gold; 20.84 % other metals
7. 18 K = 18/24 * 100 = 75 % Gold; 25 % other metals
8. 17 K = 17/24 * 100 = 70.83 % Gold; 29.17 % other metals
9. 16 K = 16/24 * 100 = 66.66 % Gold; 33.34 % other metals
10. 15 K = 15/24 * 100 = 62.5 % Gold; 37.5 % other metals
11. 14 K = 14/24 * 100 = 58.33 % Gold; 41.67 % other metals
12. 13 K = 13/24 * 100 = 54.16 % Gold; 45.84 % other metals
13. 12 K = 12/24 * 100 = 50 % Gold; 50 % other metals
14. 11 K = 11/24 * 100 = 45.83 % Gold; 54.17 % other metals
15. 10 K = 10/24 * 100 = 41.66 % Gold; 58.34 % other metals
16. 9 K = 9/24 * 100 = 37.5 % Gold; 62.5 % other metals
17. 8 K = 8/24 * 100 = 33.33 % Gold; 66.67 % other metals

Most jewelry worldwide is marked with the caratage or fineness. This may be part of a Hallmark on the jewelry. To read more about Hallmarking and Assaying of gold, please click here.

Something very interesting about gold alloys is that with varying quantity or percentage of alloying metals used, the physical and chemical properties of that alloy can be very cleverly manipulated. A very common use of this fact is that 18 K white gold and 18 K yellow gold has the same content of gold in them, but the color changes. 18 K pink gold is harder to work with than 18 K yellow gold. To read about these differences and how one can use these in their jewelry, click here.

All about diamond origins and history

One of the most simplified yet complete informative articles about diamond origins, history, mining and distribution, industry, synthetic diamonds and jewelry is available on the website of American Museum of Natural History.

A must read is the mining and distribution section. I have never come across a more comprehensive writeup about the behind the scenes life of a diamond.

http://www.amnh.org/exhibitions/diamonds/index.html

Comparing Tiffany diamonds with Costco diamonds

The most important thing about Tiffany diamonds is the cut. This is the most neglected 4th C of a diamond which Tiffany pays special interest to. It is interesting to note how a paler colored, lower clarity diamond will also start shining brilliantly when cut within the ideal proportion limits of a standard round brilliant cut.

Costco carries everything of high standards but in case of diamonds, they definitely do not go for the 'highest' standards of cut. I am not sure about the diamonds that were compared from Tiffany and Costco in the mentioned article, but so far, I have not come across a Costco diamond which falls in the 'excellent' or 'ideal' or 'signature ideal' cut category. Tiffany does.. all their diamonds whether they are F color or D, Internally flawless or very slightly included, small or big are in the very least ideal cuts adhering to the standard round brilliant cuts.

The article that got me to question my research and come back to my original assessment of Costco vs Tiffany diamonds: Tiffany's Bling vs. Costco's

And YES, the prices will differ a LOT when the cut grade changes. You can go through the change in price by simply comparing diamonds on bluenile.com then costco.com and eventually Tiffany.com

Tiffany diamonds are as I already recommended top of the line amazing, but at the end of the day, so some diamonds, you are paying over 50 % more than the actual value of the material that goes into your jewel... that is the cost of the "brand" and all the benefits that you get along with it. It is completely up to you from this point onwards whether or not you want to pay that price for the "label".

For any questions suggestions, comments or advise on buying diamonds keep visiting my website at www.jewelsutra.com or write to me at surbhi@jewelsutra.com .

Read more.. The thing about buying diamonds from Costco