Thursday, May 28, 2009

Exploitation of Jewelry Customers by using Misnomers and Misrepresentations - Part I

Very often we come across friends and clients who have at various occasions bought jewelry which is not exactly what they had expected it to be. On air, I often come across queries as to how one can be sure whether the stone they bought is a diamond or not. I have come across some whose beautiful yellow colored gemstone, 'pukhraj' bought at an unbelievable price turned out to be a more commonly available, not-so-expensive topaz, tourmaline, quartz or worse still, a piece of glass.

In short, we are talking about the mis-representation of information and misnomers used to sell stones. Before we go on, it is very important to understand the meaning of imitation, treated and synthetic stones.

Let us take an example of a diamond. A natural diamond is a rare beauty formed in the nature with no human intervention. This is the most sought after and the most expensive of its kind. If a natural diamond is treated under high pressure or temperature, or it is subjected to any other form of treatment other than cutting, to enhance its appearance to alter the color or clarity, such a diamond would be called 'treated'. Some treatments such as HPHT (High pressure high temperature) are permanent whereas some others such as fracture filling may wear off over a period of time or by chemical interaction such as perfume or heat in the kitchen etc.

If an exact replica or clone of a diamond is to be created in the laboratory, then such a diamond is called 'synthetic diamond' or sometimes a cultured diamond. A synthetic stone is chemically and physically the same as a natural stone. The difference between the value of a natural and synthetic stone makes it very important for one to be able to make out the difference between the two.
Interesting observation: Sometimes though rarely, the synthetic counterpart of a stone looks more beautiful than the natural one such as in the case of a Synthetic moissanite.

A piece of glass, a rock crystal quartz, synthetic moissanite, cubic zirconia and other colorless stones that looks like a diamond can be used to replace a diamond because they match the color of a diamond. These are known as 'imitation' stones because they are used to imitate precious and semi precious gemstones. Usually they are no where related to the chemical properties of the natural stone but look alike.

'Misnomers' are special names given to common stones to make them sound more appealing and more coveted. For example, the stone commonly known as the 'Australian jade' is actually a misnomer for a fairly commonly available Chrysoprase which even in its best quality when it looks very similar to jade is not as precious or expensive as the jade. A common misnomer for yellow Topaz is golden pukhraj which is used to imitate a yellow sapphire. Misnomers are not illegal, which makes it very hard for a buyer to take action against this unethical practice.

When a false piece of information is used to sell a jewel or stone, or when facts are bent to make the sale, such false information is known as 'mis-representation'. For example, if a pink sapphire is sold to you under the name of a ruby, a synthetic stone is sold as natural, a treatment which is not permanent is sold as permanent, then such information is mis-represented to you. If a synthetic stone is not declared as synthetic or the purity of metal is falsely reported, these are all cases of mis-representation of information. Usually this is an illegal practise, but sometimes, the question is not so much about legal but more about ethics.

Name of stone
Synthetics
Treatment
Imitations
Diamond
HPHT synthetic diamond
CVD synthetic diamond
HPHT for color enhancement
Laser drilling for clarity enhancement
Fracture filling for clarity
Coloring the girdle for color enhancement
Glass
Synthetic Moissanite
YAG
GGG
Cubic zirconia
Rock crystal quartz
Crystal
Colorless topaz
Zircon
Plastic
Ruby
Synthetic ruby
Heat treatment
Dying

Tourmaline
Garnet
Rhodolite
Glass
Cubic zirconia
Red beryl
Crystal
Sapphire
Synthetic sapphire
Heat treatment
Dying
Annealing
Iolite
Blue topaz
Cubic zirconia
Emerald
Synthetic emerald
Fracture filling
Oiling
Dying
Green beryl
Green sapphire
Tourmaline
Aventurine quartz
onyx

Coming up next: Misnomers and Mis-representation Part 2: How to identify treated, imitations and synthetics from the natural untreated stone.

Look out for information about misrepresentation and unethical practices in selling gold ornaments and other metals.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

नीलम: ब्लू सफायर

नीलम
नवरत्न के नव ग्रहों के नीले रंग को सजाता हुआ ये नीला नीला पत्थर नीलम के नाम से जाना जाता हैअंग्रेजी मेंइसे सफायर बोलते हैं. सप्तम्बर महीने में जन्में लोगों की राशि का यह रत्ना कई विवादों में घिरा रहता हैइस पोस्टमें आप पायेंगे नीलम की ऐतिहासिक खूबियाँ, इसे खरीदने की जानकारी, नीलम की सही पहचान, ज्योतिषी केमानने वाली बातें, नीलम के बेह्रूपियाँ और मानव निर्मित नीलम के बारे में

नीलम की पहचान
कोरंदम परिवार के नीले रंग में पाये जाने वाले रत्ना को नीलम कहते हैंसंस्कृत में कुरुविन्दा के नाम से पहचानेजाने वाला ये पत्थर कई रंगों में आता हैलाल रंग में इसे मणि या रूबी कहेते हैं, पीले रंग में पुखराज या येल्लोसफायर, नारंगी में पाद्पराषा और अन्य रंगों में इसे उसी रंग के नाम से जानते हैं जैसे की पर्पल सफायर, पिंकसफायर इत्यादि
इसाई संस्कृति में माना जाता है की मोसेस (Moses) को इश्वर की गस आज्ञाएँ नीलम की पटरी पर लिख कर दीगईं थींइसी कारण से नीलम को "पवित्र रत्न" (Divine Gemstone) का दर्जा मिल गया
इसके नीले रंग के भी कई किस्से हैंप्राचीन फ़ारसी (Ancient Persians) लोगों का विश्वास था की धरती एकबोहुत ही बड़ा नीलम के गोले पर स्थापित है जिसकी परछाई से ही आसमान का रंग नीला है
नीले रंग के पत्थरों में सबसे ख़ास और महंगा नीलम ही माना जाता है। ये Mohs स्केल (मोह के स्केल) पर ९ की संख्या पर उभरता है। इसका मतलब है की नीलम काफ़ी सख्त होता है और आम तौर पर ये रोज मर्रा के गहनों में पहना जा सकता है।
नीलम की पहचान इसके रंग, इसकी कठोरता संख्या, और इसके अन्दर पाई जाने वाली खूबियों से होती है

नामवर नीलम
नीलम की इतिहास में एक अलग ही जगह है। कई हस्तियों ने, राजाओं ने, महाराजाओं ने अलग अलग समय पर नीलम को गौरव दिया है। मुघल काल का "पीकॉक थ्रोन" एक बोहुत ही उच्च आदर्श है नीलम के रंगों का। इस बहू मूल नमूने में नीलम के साथ साथ तुर्मालीन, फीरोज़ा, आईओलाईट, मीना के भी रंगों का मेल है पर सबसे प्रभावी नीलम का ही असर है।
मोर की गर्दन के पीलेपन से मेल करने वाले रंग का ये पत्थर सच्चाई, राजशुल्क, निष्ठां का प्रतीक है। मंगनी की अंगूठियों में भी नीलम सुंदर लगता है। राजकुमार चार्ल्स (Prince Charles) ने राजकुमारी दैआना (Princess Diana) को, राजकुमार ऐल्बर्ट (Prince Albert) ने महारानी विक्टोरिया (Queen Victoria) को और माइकेल विल्डिंग (Michael Wilding) ने ऐलिज़ाबेथ टेलर (Elizabeth Taylor) को नीलम से सजे गहने कई अवसरों पर भेंट किए हैं।
हॉलीवुड की जानी मानी हस्ती, मेरी पिक्फोर्ड (Mary Pickford) दो बोहुत ही खूबसूरत एवं महंगे नीलम की मालकिन रह चुकी हैं... १८२ (182 कैरेट) का "स्टार ऑफ़ बॉम्बे" और ५०० (500 कैरेट) से ऊपर "स्टार ऑफ़ इंडिया" दोनों ही नीलम जो भारत के अनमोल खजानों से उत्तपन्न हुए हैं।
अपने बॉलीवुड के शहनशाह, अमिताभ बच्चन भी नीलम को बोहुत पसंद करते हैं। आप उनके दोनों नीलम को देख सकतें हैं उनकी सिनेमा "कभी अलविदा न कहना" में और "कौन बनेगा करोढ़पति" में।

नीलम का प्रभाव
ये अनमोल रत्न शनी की दशा से मुक्ति पाने के लिए निर्धारित किया जाता है। कहते हैं की शनी का असर निष्प्रभाव करने के लिए नीलम को पीले सोने में स्थापित करके दाहिने हाथ की बीच की उंगली में पहनना चाहिए। दो कैरेट का नीलम आम तौर पर सिफारिश किया जाता है और जितना गहरा इसका नीलापन, उतना ही ज्यादा इसका प्रभाव।
मानने वालों का विशवाश है की नीलम हर किसी के लिए अनुकूल नही होता।
परन्तु ये भी कहते हैं की हीरे मेंनीलम की शक्ती को निष्प्रभाव करने का यत्न होता हैइसी लिए, अगर आपको नीलम अति सुंदर लगता है, परआप इसे पहनने से घबराते हैं, तो तुल्य शक्ती और माप का हीरा साथ में पहन लें तो ये आपको परेशान नही करनाचाहिए

नीलम के लक्षण
नीलम की खूबियों में से सबसे ज़रूरी है उसका रंगरंग पनीला होना चाहिए, ज्यादा गहरास्याही के रंग केनीलम ऑस्ट्रेलिया से आते हैं और ये बोहुत उच्च नही माने जातेअच्छी किस्म के नीलम का रंग गुंजायमान होनाचाहिएपत्थर के अंतर्वेशन उसकी चमक के ऊपर भावी नही होने चाचिए
नीलम अनेक आकर में मिलता है तो आप ध्यान दीजिये की इसे किस प्रकार के गहने में लगना हैयदि कान काआभूषण है, तो नीलम गहरे रंग का भी चलेगा परन्तु अगर उंगली पर सज्जित या गले पर सजने वाला है तो इसकारंग चमकदार होना चाहिए

कहाँ से खरीदें
भारत में जयपुर में अक्सर आप नीलम का व्यापार पायेंगेखरीदने के लिए अधिकतर जोहरी इसका पेशा करतेहैंन्यू जर्सी में, आप ओक ट्री रोड के सभी नामी जोहरियों के पास नीलम के नमूने पा सकते हैंअमेरिकन गुकानोंमें आप नीलम के बने गहने पा सकते हैंयदि आपको नीलम खरीदने में सहायता की जारूरत है तो बेहिजक मुझेपत्र भेजिए surbhi.s.gupta@gmail.com पर

नीलम की खोज
सबसे प्राचीन खदान श्री लंका या सिलोन (Ceylon) में स्थापित हैंसीलोन सफायर आम बाज़ार में समृद्ध हैं परसबसे ज्यादा प्राप्य नीलम ऑस्ट्रेलिया की खनदान से आते हैंये आस्ट्रेलियन सफायर स्याही के रंग की तरहकरीब करीब काले होते हैंइनकी कीमत भी काफ़ी कम होती हैइनके ऊपर कई आचरण किए जाते हैं जिससेइनका रंग निखर जाएइनको अक्सर रंगा भी जाता है और गरम तापमान में झुलसाया जाया है
सबसे खूबसूरत और कीमती नीलम भारत में कशमीर की वादियों से उत्पन्न होते हैंवहाँ के नीलम का ख़ास नीलारंग एक मखमली तेज देता है जो केवल बोहुत ठंडे इलाके में, ओक्सिजेन्न की कमी में काफ़ी कसाव के नीचे बनसकता हैकाशमीर की राजनेतिक अशांति और काश्मीर के कठोर वातावरण के कारण काशमीरी नीलम पानाबोहुत ही मुश्किल हैपरन्तु इसी वजह से ये नीलम बोहुत ज्यादा तलाशा भी जाता है

कोई प्रशन?
यदि नीलम को खरीदने, बेचने या संभालने से सम्बंधित आपके पास कोई विवाद या प्रशन है तो बेहिजक मुझे पत्रलिखिए,
surbhi.s.gupta@gmail.com परआप मेरा कार्यक्रम रेडियो पर भी सुन सकते हैं हर हफ्ते 10 से12 बजे EST मंगलवार (Tuesday) को www.ebcmusic.com पर या 1170 am पर

Thursday, May 07, 2009

Why are diamonds expensive?

Diamonds are rare:
It is estimated that over 1.5 billion carats of diamonds lie around the coastline westward in the Orange River to the Atlantic Ocean. Over 90% of these are thought be of gem quality. In excess of $ 8 billion worth of diamonds are to be mined at the Ekati mines of Canada in the next 25 years. It is amazing the why one would consider this priceless gem as "rare".
Let us study what goes into actually getting one of these 'not so rare' gemstones into a piece of jewel and the expenses that make it so valuable.

The formation of a diamond:
The formation of a diamond requires a perfect combination of pressure and temperature which takes place deep inside the earth. The only passage of escape for these diamonds is to travel up the violent volcanic explosion to reach the earth's surface. It is crucial that the diamond takes no more than the adequate amount of time to travel up to the surface of the earth, and even a few moments in excess could destroy the identity of this diamond.

Retrieving the diamond from nature: Once the diamond has reached close to the earth's surface, it is up to human intervention to retrieve it. The prospect or search for a fruitful diamond bearing site is an expensive and tentative job which can take several years, money and equipment. Furthermore, not every diamond bearing site is profitable.
Once a site has been targeted, the cost of developing and operating the mines are just some of the factors that add to the cost of the diamond that we see in the market. Only few of these diamonds that survived their journey to reach human appreciation are of gem quality.

Separating After extraction of the material, gem quality diamond is segregated from the industrial quality. The diamond becomes a part of the parcel sold to the various site wholesalers or site holders. Millions of dollars, minds, hands and hours are put into the extraction of these gem quality diamonds each year.

Into the jewel:
The diamonds are then passed on for polishing and cutting. This is another vital part of the diamond industry which employs communities of people and consumes hours of service to produce what will then be sold to the wholesaler or retailer to further set into jewels.
The diamond jewelry, through further channels and media finally reaches the showroom of the retailer who can finally bring it up to its final owner.

Are diamonds worth it?
So when you do find this perfect piece of elegant brilliance in your hand, something that will last you through thick and thin, something that has survived the worst of its days and has come to you with love, you would think it is definitely worth it.
Moreover, once you calculate the cost of naturally forming, finding, mining, segregating, polishing and setting of gem quality diamonds, you will realize that what you are buying in a diamond is actually the rarity of the "biggest value in the smallest volume".

Wednesday, May 06, 2009

Comparing return policy of online jewelry stores



Online store name

Return Policy time frame and condition Exceptions
Costco

Anytime no time frame None in jewelry or loose stones
Bluenile

30 days
  • Damaged goods will not be returned
  • Return only in original packaging
  • Altered or re-sized by 3rd party goods
  • Engraved goods other than wedding rings
Ice Within 30 days : no questions asked full refund for products returned in original state that they were received
Defective merchandise can be sent for replacement/ repair within 90 days free of charge

  • Products which have been modified by another 3rd party jeweler or abused will not be accepted for exchange or refunds.
  • After 90 day warranty period repairs are conducted after a basic charge.
  • Additional shipping and handling charges for repair or replacement
Amazon 30 days for new, unopened items sold by amazon.com collection or target products bought from amazon
  • Products with a value of $75 or more must be returned using a trackable shipping method and items above $500 must also be insured.
  • Resized, damaged, or otherwise altered is not accepted
  • Jewelry must be returned in new, unworn condition, and undergoes quality checks before return is accepted
  • All certificates of authenticity, grading, and appraisal must be returned with your merchandise. A 15% restocking fee will be applied to any items missing their original documentation.
  • Products bought from Amazon merchants will have a link on the purchase history giving you an option for your return and the return policy varies for each seller.
Zales 30 days
  • If for any reason you are dissatisfied with your purchase, you may return it within 30 days (of the date your order was shipped from our distribution center) for a full refund of the purchase price
  • You will lose the shipping & handling, unless you have received a damaged or incorrect item.
  • Exchanges must be made within 90 days
Kay 60 days return to kay.com or Kay Jewelers

90 days exchange to Kay jewelers

  • Exchanges are not accepted at kay.com.
  • Kay.com purchases shipped to a store may only be returned to any Kay Jewelers store location
  • Your packing slip must accompany your return
  • All returns are subject to inspection by our Quality Assurance team before a refund is processed
Sams Club Anytime for full refund with receipt
  • None in jewelry with the receipt
  • Anytime for last selling price with a shopping card but no receipt
Walmart 90 Days within receiving product
  • All jewelry may be returned to a Wal-Mart store with a receipt
  • Instore exchange is applicable only for an alternate available in the store
  • Depending on the reason for return, jewlery above 300$ may be subject to return shipping cost
  • For returns or exchanges on all other jewelry purchases: You can either mail the item back using the carrier of your choice or bring it to a Wal-Mart store. Depending on the reason for the return, you may be responsible for paying the return shipping charge.
Target 90 days for new, unused, original packaged products
  • Items that have been replaced because they are damaged, defective or incorrect must be returned to a Target.com
  • Returns Center, and cannot be returned to a Target store
Nordstrom Anytime no conditions
  • Fine jewelry can be returned to selected Nordstrom stores that have a fine jewelry department
  • Packing slip and the credit card used while placing the order will be required for the return
  • This return policy is not applicable in Canada
Mondera 30 days from the date of shipment
  • Refund is subject to inspection by mondera lab to verify condition of item on receipt
  • All original Mondera paperwork must be included with the item in order for refunds to be processed.
  • Shipping and handling is NOT refunded
  • For a defective order shipping upto $15 may be refunded
  • Return Authorization Number is required for all returns
  • Badly-packaged or uninsured return packages will not be accepted
  • worn, resized, engraved, damaged, or altered in any way will not be accepted for refund or exchange.
  • Personalized items are non refundable
  • Certified diamonds must accompany original certificates without which a payment of 200$ is charged.
Tiffany 30 Days if returned in a saleable condition accompanied by a sales receipt
  • Articles are accepted for credit or exchange in the U.S. if returned in saleable condition within 30 days
  • Sales receipt is required for all returns
BJs 30 Days after the ship date for a refund
  • Full refund for shipping and handling costs for defective, damaged or mis-shipped Items
  • For all other items, shipping and handling costs will not be refunded
  • Merchandise must be in new condition with its original packing and accessories intact or it may be subject to a restocking fee.
  • Earrings cannot be returned unless unless defective or mis-shipped
  • No personalized jewelry may be returned